I seriously underestimated how much work would be involved in preparing my new Hydreva Test Garden.
The issue is that the soil here is extremely rocky. I had to excavate down about 3′ just to level the plot then, of course, prepare the soil below that. In the process, I probably removed 400-500 pounds of small rock…by hand! This ultimately involved a lot of scooting around on my butt combing through the soil and it was really tedious, but I think the results will be worth it.
What I’m trying to create is as scientific and reliable a test as I can perform raising three gardening crops from seed; tomatoes, chard and cilantro. I love to eat all three and am looking forward to having fresh vegetables. But, the primary goal is to test Hydreva’s effects vis a vis plant growth rates, health and water usage. Thus, I needed to create two separate plots. Each is now 6’x4′. The photo above was taken just before I sunk boards into the soil at the edge of each plot. This was to help prevent transferral of Hydreva’s magic from one plot to the other. Hydreva’s “crystalline structured water effects” transfer readily, in somewhat mysterious ways, to nearby and surrounding water.
The soil on both sides of my new “Hydreva Test Garden” was prepared identically. No fertilizers were used. The soil here is relatively mineral rich and nothing’s been planted in this area, so there should be adequate nutrients. As I performed my final soil prep yesterday, I’ll be planting today. Though mid-August, being beside the Pacific Ocean, temperatures here both day and night are cool enough the plants should still grow well.
A confession: I’m not an experienced gardener. I’ve done my best to learn the basics via friends and online research. I understand tomatoes grown from seed are best transplanted when the plants are 4-6″. I’m planning to bypass this step, but may replant at 4-6″ to encourage deeper rooting. Whatever’s done on one side of the garden will be done equally on the other.
Here are the procedures I’ll be following:
We know Hydreva substantially reduces watering requirements for all lawn & garden and agricultural purposes. This, because Hydreva’s “crystalline restructuring” of water results in smaller and more energetic molecular clusters, better able to plant tissue at the cellular level. Thus, lower water quantities achieve the same purposes re: nutrition and waste elimination. I will thus aim to “somewhat underwater” both plots, adjusting as I go. Regardless, each side of the garden will receive exactly the water quantities at exactly the same time. This will be assured by using the pail shown above.
I will take weekly photos of the garden to compare plant growth rates and effects, visually. I will be counting the number of tomatoes on each plot. I probably will weigh things, but haven’t yet decided on that and the methodology. Will update later.
The other photo shows my water delivery setup. You can see the Hydreva unit used is sans label. We’ve recently put a number of units out in gardening field trials in the San Diego area and, so as not to bias results or expectations, simply removed product labels. I just put the watering pail under the spigot and let’r rip. Note the valve with the red handle. I open that to fill the pail for the non-Hydreva side of the garden.